The Banggai area in Sulawesi is one of Indonesiaβs most underrated places to travel, with an amazing blue lake called Paisupok and other good things to see including beaches, caves, waterfalls, and wildlife.
This is a big area that includes three different regencies β Banggai, Banggai Islands, and Banggai Laut β so itβs a bit more complicated than visiting other places in Sulawesi. My wife is Indonesian so that helped a lot.
We visited the Banggai islands independently, arranging our own hotels and transport for each step of the journey, and this blog post will explain how you can too. Iβll also share some contacts for local tour guides if you want to join a group or do a private tour to make it easier.
Either way, Banggai has some wonderful sights and itβs well worth a visit if youβre already planning a trip to Sulawesi. Hereβs our travel guide!
Banggai Islands Itinerary Day 1: Luwuk To Peleng
β’ Fly To Luwuk
This itinerary for the Banggai islands starts and ends in Luwuk, which is a town of about 35,000 people in central Sulawesi.
There are multiple flights daily to the Luwuk airport (LUW) from Makassar in South Sulawesi, otherwise you can hire a driver and go overland to Luwuk from Ampana after visiting the Togean islands, which is another nice place to visit in Sulawesi.
If youβre flying to Luwuk from Bali, Jakarta, or somewhere else in Indonesia, then youβll have to transit in Makassar on the way to Luwuk. You can shop for flights on Skyscanner.

Mandel Beach β probably the nicest beach in the Banggai islands!
β’ Take The Ferry To Peleng
Once you arrive in Luwuk, there are taxi drivers waiting to take you to town and the drive is only about 20 minutes. We paid 50k Rupiah for the airport transfer.
From Luwuk town, you can take the public ferry from Luwuk Peopleβs Port (βPelabuhan Rakyatβ) over to Leme Leme on Peleng island. It departs every day at 2 PM and the journey takes 2 hours, although it usually leaves an hour late (i.e. Indonesian rubber time).
Tickets can be bought on the spot for 54k Rupiah (~$3 USD) per person. Currently thereβs no way to book this online, but the tickets donβt sell out.
The ferry is a big wooden boat that carries about 50 to 100 passengers, and it has bunks and benches to sit on, but theyβre not very comfy. If you want more privacy, you can rent a small room for two people which has bunk beds and a fan. This costs an extra 50k Rupiah per room.
Alternatively, you can arrange a speedboat to take you over to some of the best sights on Peleng island, including Paisu Pok Lake & Poganda Beach. In that case, the journey takes about 1 hour from Luwuk, and you can sometimes see dolphins on your way over.
A day tour with a private speedboat like this will set you back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 million Rupiah (~$100 to $250 USD) for the roundtrip, so itβs not cheap, but itβs quicker than the ferry and it could be economical in some cases if youβre traveling with friends to share the boat cost.
Regardless of whether you choose the ferry or speedboat, the sea is very calm between Luwuk and Peleng island, so I wouldnβt expect waves to ever be an issue for crossing in normal situations.

Paddleboating on Paisu Pok Lake
β’ Stay Overnight In Peleng
By the time we arrived in Peleng, it was already past 5 PM and the sun was setting. We were anxious to go see Paisu Pok Lake, but there wasnβt enough time left in our first day.
We stayed the night at Novpitri Homestay, which is right by the harbor in Leme Leme. The rooms are very basic, with a fan, squat toilet, and cold water bucket for showers. When we visited in late 2023, electricity was by generator only, but they now have 24/7 electricity there.
They only have one air-conditioned room, so itβs a good idea to book this in advance if you want it. Theyβre slow to respond on WhatsApp even if you speak Indonesian. Donβt expect luxury at the homestay, but if youβre out exploring all day itβs fine. We already knew this would be the roughest place weβd stay on our Banggai trip, so two nights here was no problem.
The normal rate is 200k Rupiah per night for the A/C room, or 150k for the fan room. Hopefully theyβll add mosquito nets soon. The family was helpful and cooked supper for us, which was also very cheap and good: rice, veggies, omelets, fried tofu, and chicken.
If you want to stay closer to the Paisu Pok Lake, there are a bunch of very basic homestays in the Luk Panenteng village, which is right by the lake. If you stay there, you can walk to the lake and swim every day.
Before going to bed, we arranged a scooter rental from the homestay so we could spend the next day going to the lake and the beach. They had it ready and waiting for us by the time we went to sleep!

Banggai has lots of little private beaches like this one near Mandel Beach.
Banggai Itinerary Day 2: West Peleng Island
β’ Paisu Pok Lake
Paisu Pok Lake is a beautiful blue lake on Peleng island, and itβs one of the main highlights of the Banggai area.
You can rent a small boat, canoe, or standup paddleboard for exploring the lake, or you can swim and snorkel in it. The lake has some of the bluest water Iβve ever seen. Itβs just as nice as it looks in the photos.
Paisupok is a 1 hour drive from Leme Leme because some parts of the road are broken and you have to slow down to pass them safely. Thereβs very little traffic on the road and itβs easy to find the lake.
I wrote a complete travel blog post about our visit to Paisupok, with lots of tips and photos, which you can check out in the link below.
Read More: Paisu Pok Lake

Paisu Pok Lake has incredibly blue water.

Drone view of Paisupok Lake
β’ Paisu Batango
The next stop on Peleng island is a little lagoon called Paisu Batango, which is a 5 minute drive from the lake. On maps itβs marked as βLuk Bath Panenteng.β
The name Paisu Batango means βtrunk waterβ or βwater from a tree trunkβ since the lagoon is fed by a natural spring. Sadly the locals use this place for bathing and washing their clothes with detergent, which messes up the clarity of the water a bit.
The cold spring water has a nice turquoise color even though the deeper side of the lagoon mixes with salt water from the ocean.

Paisu Batango
β’ Poganda Beach
The third place to visit on Peleng island is a white sand beach called Pantai Poganda, which is approximately halfway between Leme Leme and the lake. From Paisupok, itβs just a 30 minute drive.
This is a peaceful beach with calm water and palm trees, and itβs a good spot for snorkeling. We were surprised to see lots of starfish, even without snorkeling. There are a bunch of them sitting in the shallow water near the beach.
Itβs a good beach for seeing either the sunrise and sunset, depending on the time of year. There are also several swings and a pier where you can sit and relax.

Poganda Beach

The pier at Pantai Poganda
β’ Stay Overnight In Peleng
After spending all day sightseeing, we went back to Leme Leme and spent another night at the Novpitri Homestay.
If you need to go back to Luwuk at this point, thereβs a ferry from Leme Leme at 8 AM daily, but we decided to head east to Salakan and continue exploring the Banggai islands.
Before going to bed, we arranged a driver with a van for sightseeing and then taking us to Salakan the next day.
The cost was going to be 850k Rupiah (with petrol and driver) to take us directly to Salakan, or 1.2 million Rupiah to go visit two caves in southwest Peleng before going to Salakan. We decided to see the caves!
Banggai Itinerary Day 3: Caves & Salakan
β’ Driving To The Caves
Our driver Anto met us at 6:30 in the morning and then we started our day trip. First, we had to fill up on petrol, which took about 45 minutes since we had a hard time finding a place that was open this early.
The journey to the caves is a scenic drive with hills, jungles, palm forests, and ocean views. This involved about 5 hours of driving β 2 hours to the caves, and then 3 hours to Salakan β so we were happy to be in a car instead of a scooter.
As we found out, the Peleng roads are paved but theyβre broken in many places. You could do it with a scooter, but I wouldnβt recommend it unless you have some experience.
The best time to photograph the caves is in the morning, when the sun is right. We got to the first cave (Gua Susendeng) at 9 AM, and this was perfect.

Green lizard
β’ Gua Susendeng
The first cave we visited was Gua Susendeng, a shallow limestone cave with a high ceiling and a blue pool at the bottom. To reach the cave from where we parked at the main road, it was a 10-15 minute downhill walk on a grassy path.
The walk down is easy, but going back is a bit harder because itβs all uphill and thereβs no shade to escape the sun. Once you get to the mouth of the cave, thereβs a concrete stairway in good condition that goes down to the blue pool.
The color of the water is amazing and it would be fun to swim here. Our driver said the cave has been explored by scuba divers, and thereβs apparently an underwater tunnel at least 200 meters long!

Gua Susendeng

Inside the cave

Blue pool
β’ Gua Babβbanang
From the first cave, itβs only a 10 minute drive to the next cave, which is called Gua Babβbanang. Then, thereβs a short 5-10 minute walk through the forest, where you can see lots of blue-tailed lizards and also some nice bright green lizards.
Gua Babβbanang is great for pictures, especially when youβre looking down at it from above. Thereβs a concrete stairway that goes to the bottom of the cave. The water here was even more blue than the first cave! Itβs beautiful.
Sadly the locals have already built an ugly concrete bathroom right by the mouth of the cave, and there was a lot of trash in the forest too. Hopefully with the increased interest from tourism, theyβll have some motivation to keep this area clean. The cave itself is very nice!

Gua Babβbanang

Amazing colors at Gua Babβbanang
β’ Drive To Salakan
After we got done at the caves, it was a 3 hour drive to the town of Salakan. We hoped to stop for lunch on the way there, but we didnβt see anything that looked worthwhile, so we decided to wait and have a late lunch in Salakan.
β’ Stay Overnight In Salakan
We spent one night in Salakan. Itβs a small town with only 2,000 people, but there are several comfortable hotels and restaurants to choose from.
We stayed at Wisma Sidapore Teluk Bayur, which had clean A/C rooms and free breakfast. Other options are Wisma Sidapore Jalur Dua (owned by the same people) or Wisma Alfrend Salakan.
You can make a booking with any of these hotels via WhatsApp. They can also arrange a scooter rental, or a car and driver.
Banggai Itinerary Day 4: Salakan To Banggai Laut
β’ Bone Pompon Beach
For our 4th day in Banggai, we hired a driver from Salakan to take us to several beaches and then drop us at the harbor in Tobing so we could go to our next destination, Banggai Laut island. This time the cost was 800k Rupiah for the car, driver, and petrol.
The first beach we visited was called Bone Pompon, and it was a 30 minute drive from Salakan. At Pompon, you can hire a small boat to visit several hidden beaches, including a little secret island called Pulo Tambun, which has a white sand beach.
However, we were in a hurry to get to our next beach (Mandel) since it sounded like it might be even better.

Bone Pompon Beach
β’ Mandel Beach
Mandel Beach is a white sand beach more than a kilometer long, and itβs probably the most beautiful beach in all of central Sulawesi.
This beach has extremely white sand and turquoise water. Even though itβs only a 1 hour drive from Salakan, we only saw two other people there! It was amazing to have it all to ourselves. I expected it to be crowded like Paisu Pok, but since itβs a bit harder to reach, I think that has kept the crowds away.
Itβs a wonderful beach and I hope it doesnβt become overdeveloped. There was some rubbish on the beach, so we filled two small bags with trash and tipped our driver for helping dispose of it in town.

Mandel Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Banggai islands.

White sand at Mandel Beach
β’ Bone Uluno Abason Beach
The third beach we visited was called Bone Uluno Abason, and it was a 30 minute drive from Mandel. Itβs a long beach with brown sand.
This was a nice beach, but there was trash everywhere. It was sad to see. This may have been partly because of the rainy season, because Iβve seen pictures of this beach where there was no trash at all, so your experience may vary depending on when you go.

Drone pic of Bone Uluno Abason Beach
β’ Tendetung Lake
If you still have extra time before going to the harbor, you can see Tendetung Lake. Itβs a winding turquoise-green lake that looks really nice in drone pictures.
We decided to skip the lake when we were there, because they told us it wasnβt the right season and we were running low on time anyway.
β’ Boat To Banggai Laut
After we were done seeing beaches, we drove to the harbor in Tobing, which is the best spot to get a boat transfer to Banggai Laut island. Another option is the harbor in Kalumbatan, but itβs apparently more expensive.
From Tobing, itβs easy to get a boat ride to Banggai Laut. The cost was 80k per person because we shared it with four locals and their kids. The last shared boat goes at 5 PM, so if you show up later than that you might have to pay more to charter a boat.
The boat ride is safe and comfortable, and only takes 15 minutes to get to Banggai Laut. Itβs a small speedboat but thereβs plenty of room for luggage.
β’ Overnight In Banggai Laut
Once you arrive in Banggai Laut, there are hotels and restaurants within walking distance from the harbor.
We stayed at Hotel Banggai, which was a little pricey by Indonesian standards, but it was comfortable and had free breakfast. We paid 500k per night.
The owner Refly was extremely kind and helpful for every aspect of our stay on the island, so that was a huge bonus. He also speaks English and was able to arrange a scooter rental, private driver, and other things for us in Banggai Laut. You can contact them by WhatsApp at β +62 813-1931-6124.
If Hotel Banggai doesnβt work with your budget, another good option is Batara Guest House, which is a bit cheaper and also has free breakfast.
Banggai Itinerary Day 5: Banggai Laut
β’ Bontolan Beach
We expected bad roads in Banggai Laut, but actually almost every road on the island is paved and in good condition. There are some steep roads when youβre going up or down a hill, but nothing too crazy.
The first place we went was Bontolan Beach, which is just 15 minutes from town. The beach may not be very remarkable above water, but itβs a good spot for snorkeling. You can see some nice fish species here, including the endemic Banggai cardinalfish, which only lives in the Banggai archipelago.

Bontolan Beach
β’ Oyama Beach
Oyama Beach is a nice little white sand beach on Banggai Laut that can only be reached by boat, although itβs a short and easy ride that takes 10 minutes or less.
You can hire a boat driver from either Lokotoy or Popisi village in northern Laut, and the total cost is only 50-150k Rupiah for the return trip. Our boat was small but held 7 people, so you could try to join others and split the cost.
Oyama has a private feel, and nice turquoise water. If you look around in the trees there are lots of colorful green lizards, and a boardwalk that leads to a mangrove forest behind the beach.

Drone pic of Oyama Beach

Oyama Beach from above
β’ Lambangan Pauno Beach
This is a nice beach near the upcoming airport in Banggai Laut. Itβs unusual because it has a natural rock arch, which you can only reach at low tide, and itβs also a good spot for sunrise photos.
β’ Tanjung Gundul
Tanjung Gundul is an interesting little cove and beach thatβs only accessible by boat. The starting point is Pasir Putih village, and the boat ride takes about 15 minutes.
Tanjung Gundul is probably one of the most unique beaches in Indonesia, with white pebbles instead of sand, and a giant rock arch thatβs been carved out of limestone by the wind and waves. It reminded me of the white pebble beaches in Kefalonia, Greece.
A short trip here with a private boat starts at 150k Rupiah to go there and back, and you can also combine it with a visit to the Teluk Lalong lagoon mentioned below. If you share a boat with a group, you could do it cheaper. Local tourists usually go in the morning, so that would be your best bet for sharing.

Drone pic of Tanjung Gundul

The unique white pebble beach at Tanjung Gundul
β’ Teluk Lalong
Thereβs a nice lagoon just a short distance away from Tanjung Gundul, so you can visit both places in the same boat trip.
The Teluk Lalong lagoon has bright blue and green water. You can see fish and coral in the lagoon, and we even spotted a sea turtle, although I wouldnβt recommend swimming in the lagoon because the locals told us there are crocodiles.

Teluk Lalong lagoon

Drone pic of the blue and green lagoon
β’ Kelapa Lima Beach
Kelapa Lima is a remote beach with palm trees and tall limestone cliffs. Itβs a nice beach, and it was empty when we visited. The name means 5 coconut beach.
This was the only spot in Banggai Laut where we felt like we actually wanted a car. The road was very rough and itβs a hassle with a scooter, although you can still do it.
Afterwards, we went back to town and stayed another night on Banggai Laut island.

Kelapa Lima Beach

Drone pic of Kelapa Lima Beach
Banggai Itinerary Day 6: Mbuang-Mbuang Island
β’ Boat Trip To Mbuang-Mbuang
One of the best places to visit near Banggai Laut is the island of Mbuang-Mbuang, which is about 80 kilometers to the southeast.
There are a bunch of good things to see on Mbuang island, but itβs not very easy to get there, especially if the weather is unfavorable, like it was for us. We had to skip this day trip because the weather just wasnβt ideal in December.
You can get there with a public slow boat, which is cheap and relatively safe, but it takes about 7-8 hours one way. The other option is to do a day trip with a private speedboat, which takes about 2 hours each way, but itβs more weather dependent since the boat is smaller.
The speedboat is pretty expensive (up to 4 million Rupiah), but itβs a lot more convenient than the public boat, and it may be economical if you have friends to share the cost.
β’ Pasir Panjang Beach
This is the main beach at the village of Mbuang-Mbuang. You can walk directly to this white sand beach from the village, so itβs easy to access once you get there.
β’ Paisu Batongan Jellyfish Lake
The top attraction on Mbuang-Mbuang island is a lake where you can swim with stingless jellyfish! Because of the remoteness, itβs still not as well known as some of the other jellyfish lakes in Indonesia.
There are two different kinds of jellyfish in the lake, and both are harmless to humans. It also has some fish in it, including the endemic Banggai cardinalfish.
β’ Palanggang Beach
This is a small hidden beach near the Mbuang village thatβs supposed to be good for snorkeling. Itβs not far from the village or Pasir Panjang beach, but you still need a boat to reach it.
β’ Popisi Hill
Thereβs a nice viewpoint here called Bukit Popisi, where you can see several islands spread out on the ocean. Itβs kind of similar to the views in Raja Ampat, Sombori, or Ang Thong Thailand. The hike to the top takes about 10-15 minutes.
β’ Pingo Beach
This is a long beach with white sand on the east side of Mbuang island. Itβs surrounded by limestone hills, so the only way to go there is by boat.
β’ Overnight In Banggai Laut
If you visit Mbuang island on a day trip with a speedboat, you can stay the night back in Banggai Laut again, where there are plenty of hotels.
Otherwise, if you go with a slow boat, thereβs only one place to stay in the Mbuang-Mbuang village and itβs a very basic guesthouse that includes meals.
Banggai Itinerary Day 7: Return To Luwuk
β’ Ferry From Banggai Laut To Luwuk
After you get done seeing everything in Banggai Laut, the only way to get back to Luwuk is by boat.
The ferry from Banggai Laut to Luwuk goes every day at 1 PM (or 2 PM if itβs tardy), and then the trip takes about 8 hours. The boat is big and safe, and reasonably comfortable. The sea was a little wavy in some spots but it was mostly calm.
The ticket cost is 130k Rupiah per person, and if you pay an extra 200k you can rent a little room for two people, with bunk beds and A/C. Our room was freezing cold, but it was nice to have a place to rest in private on the long boat ride.
β’ Overnight In Luwuk
Once you arrive in Luwuk, there are plenty of restaurants and hotels where you can spend the night.
Cheap hotels in Luwuk include Ayana Homestay, RedDoorz RSUD, and RedDoorz Plus Syariah. There are also several high end hotels like Swiss-Belinn, Hotel Santika, and Estrella Hotel.
We stayed at Hotel Kota, which is a nice balance of comfort and affordability, since it was priced at 345k Rupiah per night for an A/C room with free breakfast. You can contact them by WhatsApp at β +62 857-5633-5555.
Banggai Itinerary Day 8: Waterfalls
β’ Piala Waterfall
One of the best things to see near Luwuk is the Piala Waterfall, which is a big turquoise waterfall with multiple cascades, located right outside of town. The drive only takes about 15 minutes.
This one reminded me a bit of the famous Kuang Si Falls in Laos, which also has turquoise colored water and lots of separate cascades and natural pools where you can swim.
This waterfall is still mostly unknown to international tourists, but plenty of locals go there, so if you want to beat the crowds then you have to go in the morning, preferably on a weekday!
Read More: Best Waterfalls In Indonesia

Piala Waterfall in Luwuk, Sulawesi

Close up view of Piala Waterfall. Itβs nice for swimming!

One of the smaller falls at Piala
β’ Laumarang Waterfall
This is a second waterfall near Piala, and itβs accessed by the same road, but you have to go a bit farther and the road becomes very rough.
You can get to Laumarang by hiking from the parking area at Piala, but it takes at least 1 hour for the roundtrip. Theyβre working on improving the roads here, so hopefully soon thereβll be better access.
If you hike past Laumarang, thereβs also a nice and big third waterfall called Akar Darah.

Lizard near the waterfalls
β’ Dendengan Waterfall
Dendengan Waterfall is another spot near Luwuk, just a 20 minute drive from the airport or 40 minutes from town. Itβs fairly popular and easy to reach, with a paved road all the way to the falls.
Sadly the waterfall was dried up when we went in early December, but the pictures Iβve seen from other times of the year look nice.
β’ Kamumu Waterfall
This is another turquoise waterfall thatβs located northeast of Luwuk. Itβs very nice but you canβt drive all the way to the falls, so it requires a bit of hiking.
β’ Salodik Waterfall
This is the last waterfall we visited in the Luwuk area, and itβs about 40 minutes from the town center. The road is good and thereβs plenty of parking.
Salodik is a nice waterfall with a bunch of different cascades, but itβs very overdeveloped.
Theyβve turned it into a bit of a concrete jungle, sadly, with lots of ugly buildings all around the falls. It was a bit distracting and made it hard to enjoy the natural scenery of the place.

Salodik Waterfall

The lower falls
β’ Overnight In Luwuk
We stayed another night at Hotel Kota in Luwuk.
Banggai Itinerary Day 9: Pulau Dua
β’ Pulau Dua
Pulau Dua is a scenic little island that you can visit on a day trip from Luwuk, with steep hills and a stairway you can hike to the top of the island. The terrain looks a little bit like Padar island in Komodo, and itβs also a great place for snorkeling.
From Luwuk, itβs a 2.5 hour drive and then a 15 minute boat ride to get to Pulau Dua island. The boat cost is 300k to 400k Rupiah per day for the whole boat, and theyβll bring you all around the island wherever you want to go.
β’ Overnight In Luwuk
Spend your last night in Luwuk before catching a flight to Makassar, and then onwards to your next destination.
Alternatively, you can hire a driver in Luwuk to take you to Ampana, where you can catch a boat to go visit the Togean islands and then explore Gorontalo in north Sulawesi.
5-Day Banggai Islands Itinerary
If youβre limited on time in Banggai, you can do many of the highlights like the lake, beaches, and waterfalls in 4 or 5 days.
Hereβs what a shorter itinerary for Banggai could look like:
- Day 1. Arrive In Luwuk. Take the 4 PM ferry from Luwuk to Salakan, and then stay overnight in Salakan. The ferry ride takes 3.5 or 4 hours, and tickets cost 74k Rupiah per person.
- Day 2. Beaches. Drive 2 hours from Salakan to the southeast harbor in Kalumbatan and take a quick speedboat ride over to Oyama Beach and back. They charge around 500-750k Rupiah for the whole boat roundtrip, and you can arrange it on the spot. Afterwards, drive overland to Mandel Beach and Pompon Beach before returning to Salakan to spend the night.
- Day 3. Lake. Drive from Salakan to western Peleng (2.5 or 3 hours) and then visit Paisu Pok Lake, Paisu Batango, and Poganda Beach. Stay overnight in Leme Leme near the harbor.
- Day 4. Return To Luwuk. Take the 8 AM boat from Leme Leme back to Luwuk (2 to 3 hours), and then go see Piala Waterfall and the other waterfalls near Luwuk town. Stay overnight in Luwuk.
- Day 5. Leave Luwuk. Fly out from the airport to Makassar, or continue overland to Ampana to visit the Togean islands and north Sulawesi.

Colorful seashells at Tanjung Gundul

Another view of Mandel Beach
Map Of The Best Things To Do In Banggai
Hereβs a map of some of the best things to do in the Banggai area. Sights are marked in blue, hotels in yellow, harbors in green, and airports in red.
Keep in mind the Banggai area is still very new to tourism and we didnβt get to see everything, so there are undoubtedly more hidden gems waiting to be found in this area if you look around. Thatβs the most fun part!
Tour Guide Contacts For Banggai
When we visited Banggai, we booked our own hotels and also arranged our own transport (drivers, boats, and motorbikes), usually with a bit of help from our hotels. My wife is Indonesian, so that made things a lot easier.
If youβre only planning to visit Paisupok Lake and other things near Luwuk, then a tour isnβt really needed in my opinion.
However, if you want to go to all of the caves, beaches, etc in Banggai and you donβt speak Bahasa, then it could be helpful to have a local tour guide who can arrange everything for you.
Here are some good local contacts for that:
- Michael Wagey β Freelance tour guide based in Salakan on Peleng island. Mick does private trips and also monthly shared trips in Banggai. Heβs the main person who popularized the Banggai islands, and his viral Instagram posts have inspired a lot of people to visit.
Even though we didnβt do a tour with Mick, he was very helpful answering questions for us, and he was able to put us in touch with a driver in Salakan to take us to the beaches and then drop us at the harbor to go to Banggai Laut. You can contact Mick Wagey by WhatsApp at β +62 813-4201-5440 or on his Instagram page. - Acho Akina Chowji β Freelance tour guide in the Banggai area. You can contact him by WhatsApp at β +62 822-9374-8745 or on his Instagram page.
- Butros Galileo Delim β Freelance tour guide based in Peleng island. You can contact him on his Instagram page.
- TripBanggai β Tour company in Banggai. You can contact them by WhatsApp at β +62 811-433-7690 or on their Instagram page.
- HV Trip β Tour company that sometimes does open trips to Banggai if you want to share a tour. You can contact them by WhatsApp at β +62 821-5942-7772 or on their Instagram page.

Drone picture of the amazingly blue Paisu Pok Lake.
Other Contacts For Banggai
- Boni β Taxi driver based in Luwuk. He can transfer you from the airport or harbor to your hotel in Luwuk, or vice versa. You can contact him by WhatsApp at β +62 853-8562-5578.
- Anto Unus β Driver with a van based in Leme Leme on Peleng island. The Novpitri Homestay put us in touch with him, and he drove us to the caves and then to Salakan. You can contact him by phone at β +62 822-7855-7858 or on his Instagram page.
- Novpitri Homestay β This is the guesthouse where we stayed in Leme Leme. You can contact them with the WhatsApp number listed on their Google Maps listing, but donβt expect a fast response.
- Luk Panenteng Homestay β This is a guesthouse at the Panenteng village directly by the Paisupok lake. Theyβre a 5 minute walk from the lake. You can contact them with the WhatsApp number listed on their Google Maps listing. We donβt have experience with them, but Iβm including it here for information sake.

Blue pool at Gua Babβbanang cave
Other Tips For Banggai
- Airports: Currently the only airport in the Banggai area is the one in Luwuk (LUW), which has multiple flights per day from Makassar. Theyβre also working on an airport in Banggai Laut, so that should open up some new travel possibilities when itβs finished.
- Roads: The roads are mostly good in Luwuk and Banggai Laut. The bad roads we encountered were in Peleng island, although itβs still okay with a scooter if you know what youβre doing.
- Language Barrier: The locals in Banggai can barely speak English, and this area is still very new to international tourism, so itβs a good idea to download a translator app for communication.
- ATM: There are ATMs in Luwuk town and also at the Luwuk airport if you need cash. We used the BNI Bank ATM in Banggai Laut and it worked fine. There are also ATMs in Salakan, although we didnβt try using them.
- Credit Cards: Most things are cash only in the Banggai area, including drivers, hotels, ferries, and restaurants. We were only able to use a credit card for our flights, and a couple of higher end hotels and restaurants.
- Food: Banggai isnβt Bali, so donβt expect loads of choices, but we never had trouble finding good places to eat, and a lot of the hotels had their own restaurant menus with the typical Indonesian food. Luwuk has a KFC and Pizza Hut in town if you find yourself missing western food.
- Apps: You can use the GoJek app for taxi rides and food delivery in Luwuk, but most people use a local app called Draiv, which has some of the same features. This app also works in Banggai Laut.
- Electricity: Youβll have 24/7 electricity in all of the significant towns in Banggai like Luwuk, Salakan, and Banggai Laut. When we visited Leme Leme in late 2023 it was also generator only, but they now have 24/7 electricity there. In remote places like Mbuang Mbuang, power is still by generator only. Theyβll usually turn it on from around 6 PM to 6 AM, and you can charge your phone and other electronics during this time.
- Cell Service: We had good 3G/4G signal with Telkomsel everywhere in Luwuk, Peleng, and Banggai Laut except while driving through the hills and such.
- WiFi: Surprisingly, we had usable WiFi at every hotel where we stayed in Luwuk, Peleng, and Banggai Laut. The only exception was at the homestay in Leme Leme, where our room was out of range of the WiFi connection. If you go to Mbuang Mbuang island, donβt count on any WiFi there either.
- Malaria: According to this Lancet study from 2018, Malaria has been greatly reduced in the Banggai area, but it may still be present to some extent. I would err on the side of caution and do everything you can to protect yourself from mosquito bites. We didnβt take Malaria pills / prophylactics.
- Wildlife: The Banggai area is home to some endemic animal species like the Banggai cardinalfish, Quince monitor lizard, and Peleng tarsier. You can see the tarsiers by trekking in Peleng island or Banggai Laut. The locals told us there are cobras and pit vipers in Banggai too, although we never saw any snakes during our time there.

The beach at Pasir Putih village on Banggai Laut

Paddleboarding at Lake Paisu Pok
When To Visit The Banggai Islands
For most of Indonesia, the best time to visit is from April to November, which is the dry season. However, Banggai seems to follow its own weather pattern and itβs not very predictable.
We visited Banggai in early December, but the rain was usually at night and it didnβt really cause issues for our trip. However, we had to skip Mbuang-Mbuang island because the waves were too challenging for the sea crossing.
Some of the waterfalls in the Luwuk area start to dry up around September or October, and they stay that way until around January or February, but the Piala Waterfall is good all year. It had plenty of water when we visited in early December, even though the climate around Luwuk was still pretty dry at that time.
Paisu Pok Lake is normally good in any month of the year. Just try to avoid holidays and weekends since it can get very crowded at that time. Sunny days are best for seeing the color and clarity of the lake.

Blue tailed lizard
Conservation In Banggai
If you love the Banggai islands, your help is appreciated to keep them clean. We made sure to leave every place cleaner than we found it, and at some of the beaches we filled a bag of trash to take away.
I think some tourism can be helpful for this area as long as people are careful to clean and protect it. Itβs a remote area with not a lot of infrastructure, so I donβt think it will have mass tourism like Bali any time soon, thankfully.
More Indonesia Travel Tips
Thanks for looking! I hope you enjoyed this travel guide for visiting Luwuk and the Banggai Islands in Sulawesi, Indonesia.
Donβt forget to check out my complete guide for Paisupok Lake for more tips and photos of Banggaiβs most famous attraction.
See Also
- Most Beautiful Indonesian Islands - Best Places To Visit In Indonesia
- Best Hikes In Indonesia - Volcanoes, Jungles, & Waterfalls
- Indonesia Waterfall Guide - Best Waterfalls In Indonesia
- Indonesia Beach Guide - Best Beaches In Indonesia
- Best Things To Do In Indonesia - What To Do In The Islands
- Indonesia Travel Guide - Tips, Info, & Photos
50 comments
Hi David, great post, incredible photos! Exactly what I need, Can’t wait to be there. soon. Your post has just initiated me to book my flight right away! Thank you so much for the details. They’re very helpful. I’ve read a lot of your articles on your blog post & I like your style of writing. Informative, easy to understand and I get the feel that you try to support the locals, sharing their contacts on your blog. Well done! I’m a big fan of Indonesia by the way. Been ravelling there back and forth for over 30 years and still can’t get enough of it! Thanks so much for sharing this- Shannim
Nice! Thanks Shannim, have a great trip to Banggai.
Thank you so much. This is very helpful. Take care and safe trip~
Hi there, did you made the trip to Mbuang-mbuang island on this trip? and how about bajau tribe village in banggai laut called mandebolu, do you know about that?
Hi. We didn’t do Mbuang-Mbuang on this trip, but I included the info in case people want to go there. The beaches and jellyfish lake look really nice and we’ll probably try to go there next time we’re in Banggai.
Hi David and Intan, I was wondering if we can book perhaps grab car from the airport to the peopleβs port? Or is it something that we need to book a few days prior?
Hi Lee. There is GoJek in Luwuk and also a local app called Draiv, but not Grab. We didn’t try the apps at the airport to see if they could find drivers, we only used them in town. But there were taxi drivers at the airport asking us if we needed a ride, so it should be easy to find one there without booking.
We paid 50k Rupiah for our airport transfer with Boni. You can contact him by WhatsApp at β +62 853-8562-5578 if you want.
Thank you so much! What about the boats that youβre using to go to different islands? How do we get one and what is the average cost?
It depends which boat, but the full details are in the blog post. You don’t need a booking for the boats unless you want to do a private boat.
Hi David, I would like to do a private boat of one day just to go from Luwuk to the lakes and come back. Where can I do this booking?
Hi Anna. The private boat to those spots can be arranged by Mick Wagey or Butros Delim.
Thank you for sharing! Your blog is an absolute treasure trove of inspiration and adventure! Keep up the good work and I look forward to following your next journey!
Thanks Chong!
Hi David, just one suggestion: Could you please add a date to the blog posts? At least in the mobile version I couldnβt find one. Itβs just good to know, as some of the information can change quickly. For example there are no more direct flights from Manado to Luwuk currently and Leme-Leme has 24hrs electricity now:)
Thanks Tobi, I just added that info about the flights and electricity. I was experimenting with hiding the dates because they normally only show the last time the post was updated, which can be a little bit confusing.
We were there in December and I wrote the guide in January. But I do edit these guides constantly to try to keep them up to date, so any notes are appreciated until I can get back to Banggai hopefully later this year. Iβm checking with our local contacts in Banggai now to see if there have been any other changes recently as well.
That’s disappointing they stopped the Manado flights to Luwuk, but hopefully they bring them back again in the future. Or maybe theyβre planning to fly to the new airport in Banggai Laut when itβs finished.
Hello David & Intan,
First of all, thank you so much for this really detailed blog, it helped us a lot on our trip!
We followed your itinerary almost exactly and did everything like you. That’s why I’m sharing a few of our experiences here so that you can perhaps add a few details.
First of all, it’s about the travel time. I read from you that the best time to travel to Banggai is from April to October, as this would be the dry season. Unfortunately, it’s the other way around, and I’ve had this confirmed by all the locals. Anto, the driver, and Refly at the Banggai Hotel both said that the best time is from October to December, when it is the dry season and the wind is not yet too strong. Unfortunately, we had a lot of rain, wind and only three days out of ten when it was mostly sunny. At Paisu Pok we only really had a bit of sun for 20 minutes, but it was enough for a few good shots. Unfortunately, we had to abandon Mbuang-Mbuang in the middle of the boat trip because the wind and waves were just too strong. Pouring rain included. In general, it rained through the three days on Banggai. Unfortunately, we were also unable to visit the Piala and Laumarang waterfalls as both were closed due to flooding. So much for the weather and the ideal travel time.
Otherwise the prices for Leme-Leme Novpitri Homestay have gone up a bit, AC-Room is 200/day and Fan-Room 150/day. Scooter rental costs 150/day. Anto charged us IDR 1.3 million for the trip to Salakan and only IDR 700 for the trip to Pompon and Mandel Beach and then to Tobing.
The prices on Banggai for Hotel Banggai were still the same as yours.
The boat trip to Mbuang-Mbuang would have cost us 4 million, as we had to cancel it we visited the Kokungan waterfall on the way back and then agreed on a price of 2.2 million.
In Luwuk, we hired Boni as our driver for the whole trip. I can highly recommend Boni as he speaks English reasonably well and has fair prices. 50/airport transfer, 500 for the visit to Salodik and Kamumu waterfalls, Piala and Laumarang on the way back included (if they are not closed). We paid a million for the transfer to Pulau Dua and back.
In Pulau Dua we paid 400 for the boat for the whole day.
I would also like to say about Luwuk that everyone here has to adjust a little to the public harbor, that you are practically the superstar there. We were grabbed and stared at as if we were Alliensπ Be careful with your luggage, several people tried to carry it for us as porters to the ferry and also into the harbor building, the backpacks were almost torn out of our hands. A determined and confident demeanor helped us a lot here.
In the end, the 3-hour wait for the ferry was bridged with a full-on photo session with the locals.
I can also recommend Rispan as a contact at the harbor in Luwuk, whom we met while waiting. He speaks very good English and made it much easier for us to communicate with the locals. Here is his Instagram account: rzn_galih
He works there in the port supervision and helps with buying tickets and finding your way around the port.
We were also recommended Danau Tendetung, another lake in Peleng that you can visit on the way from Mandel Beach to Tobing. We only got the tip on the ferry from Banggai to Luwuk, but the pictures the local showed me looked fantastic.
All in all, I was really impressed with how well you can replicate your trip through Banggai. Absolutely doable for the three of us without speaking a word of Indonesian, but with the great help of the locals and a good offline translator.
Thank you very much for your very helpful guide and I can really recommend everyone here to take the Banggai adventure. It is infinitely worth it!
Thousands thanks and all the best for you all!
Markus Raiser
IG: mk.rs.travel and favorite.travel.moments
Hey Markus, thanks so much for the comments and your experience! Sure, I’ll update the blog post with those details.
Glad you guys had a great trip to Banggai! Sorry to hear the weather wasn’t cooperating. That’s strange, because we had some of the same weather problems in December, and Refly told us we should’ve come in April – November. Maybe the weather in Banggai is more random than I thought.
Luwuk was very dry in December, but the islands like Banggai and Peleng were cloudy and raining on several days. We ultimately decided not to go to Mbuang-Mbuang for that reason. They told us it was very wavy and may not be safe. Next time, we’ll try to take the big boat over to Mbuang-Mbuang instead of a speedboat. It’s a lot slower, but should be better on the waves.
You’re right, the locals are very friendly and overwhelming at the harbor in Luwuk. Haha. Glad you guys had a fun trip!
Yes, the weather is really very unpredictable, but I actually asked every local and driver and hotel owner what they say the rainy season and the dry season is, the answer was always from April to November. But subliminally, I sometimes had the feeling that they didn’t really know themselves haha. We met another expat in Banggai Laut who had moved here from Russia. He didn’t speak English very well, but he was still able to give me some good information about Banggai, for example the two volcanic eruptions in Halmahera and Ruang would probably have a strong impact on the weather due to the gigantic ash clouds. Which of course can significantly affect seasonal conditions. I think it’s like everything else, you often need a bit of luck and patience. We are definitely planning to come to Banggai again, with a little more than 2 weeks stay. Among other things, to visit Mbuang Mbuang by slow boat.
And I agree with you, after getting used to the people, it ended up being one of the best experiences we had with the locals in Indonesia haha.
Yeah, that makes sense. I hope you guys get better weather on your next trip so you can see Mbuang and the other places!
Hi! Your travel posts are so inspirational. Although I’ve only been outside of the United States twice, I can’t wait to use your helpful tips and guides to plan a memorable trip!
Thank you!
Hi David, first congratulations and thank you for such an informative post, Iβm at that point where one gets stuck in the loop of looking for information about this trip and your post covers pretty much everything! Iβm planning a trip for September, got in touch with a few guides, and as much as I appreciate the job of the guide, unfortunately the tour prices are a bit too high, around 2 million per day per person for 2ppl, and I must confess that apart from the high prices, I also enjoy the adventure too much to spend that amount of money on a guided trip that can be done independently π Iβve been summing up the costs you shared on the post, boats and accommodation, but not food and scooter rentals which add up not that much more. Would you say for the same trip for 2 people , around 8 million should be enough ? Thanks in advance, and safe travels βοΈ
Hi Marcelo! Yeah, we were in Banggai for 10 days and spent around 1 million Rupiah per day for everything except flights. I’m sure we could have done it cheaper too. For example, in Banggai Laut we hired a driver with a car on the first day because we were afraid the roads would be bad, but actually it was good enough for a scooter (and we did that afterwards). We also could have stayed cheaper at Batara Guest House instead of Hotel Banggai. Good luck!
Hello David and Intang,
Thank you for the amazing tips. Me and a friend of mine are planning to go there in July.
I wanted to do the 5 day itinerary that you proposed. Some questions I have: Is it possible to rent a scooter there, for example to drive from Salakan to Mandel beach?
Or from Salakan to Leme-Leme?
If yes, do I need an international drivers licence there or is my German license enough?
Can I book the ferry from Luwuk to Salakan in and the ferry from Leme-Leme to Luwuk in Advance or is that not possible/ not necessary?
Thanks in advance, I really appreciate your help.
Regards, Aris
Hi Aris. Yes, any hotel in Salakan should be able to rent a scooter for you, or else they’ll put you in touch with someone who can. International drivers license is required, although they probably won’t ask or care.
Salakan to Mandel beach wouldn’t be a hard drive. There are some broken spots in the road, but it isn’t very steep. Salakan to Leme-Leme is a bit harder and it’s a long drive (3+ hours), but still doable if you’re careful.
For the ferries, you don’t need to book them in advance and I don’t think there’s any system for doing that anyway at the moment. They don’t sell out. Good luck!
Hello David and Intan
what an amazing blog! I’m mesmerized by the pictures that you posted. Your tips has opened my appetite to travel to Sulawesi next year. Thanks for inspiriring me!
Awesome! Thanks
Buenas, te escribo desde EspaΓ±a, queremos ir mi pareja y yo a finales de agosto junto con Manado y Toraja, y querΓamos saber si hay hay agencias se buceo en Banggai porque en Google no aparece ninguna.
Muchas gracias por tu trabajo!
Saludos desde EspaΓ±a!
Hola carmen. No buceamos en Banggai, pero aquΓ hay dos pΓ‘ginas que encontrΓ© con informaciΓ³n. Espero que esto ayude:
https://www.instagram.com/oceanaluwukdc/
https://www.divingsulawesi-tompotika.com/
Muchas gracias! Otra cosa que querΓa preguntarte es si hay posibilidad de alquilar un coche por mi cuenta ( sin conductor) estoy muy acostumbrada a viajar asi y no se si serΓa muy buena idea…
Gracias de antemano!
Β‘Bienvenido! Estoy seguro de que podrΓas alquilar un coche sin conductor en Luwuk y Banggai Laut. AquΓ hay uno que encontrΓ©:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/XSu2XNidzDmrU1nx8
En Luwuk, parece que hay muchas opciones para lugares de alquiler de autos, pero esta tiene la mayor cantidad de reseΓ±as.
Sin embargo, puede que sea mΓ‘s difΓcil en Peleng, ya que Leme Leme es sΓ³lo un pequeΓ±o pueblo. Pero podrΓas preguntar en la casa de huΓ©spedes de allΓ.
Hi David, thanks for this very helpful blogpost. It really made me want to visit the Banggai islands!
Unfortunately we only have three weeks in Indonesia and also want to travel around East Java. Regarding that limited amount of time, would you say it is possible and worth it to fly from Java to Luwuk to (only) do the Banggai and Togean islands in Sulawesi? Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi Mia! Sure, three weeks should be enough time to do Java, Banggai, and Togean without rushing too much.
If you need to skip something, Togean is probably the most logical thing to cut since it’s more remote than the others. Usually it makes more sense to do Togean if you’re going to Manado and seeing Sulawesi from north to south, or vice versa. But since it’s a long drive from Luwuk, and then you’d have to do that drive again on the way back, assuming you fly out of Luwuk when you’re done, then it may be a lot of time in transit.
Alternatively, you could do 1 week in Java and 1 week in Banggai, plus you’d have spare time for some extra things along the way like Rammang Rammang near Makassar. You’d be flying to Makassar anyway on the way to Luwuk, I assume, since flights to Luwuk transit there.
Thanks for the informative post! I am a solo backpacker so on somewhat of a budget. I noticed one of your previous comments mentioned spending about 1 million idr per day. Would you say that much of your itinerary (at least on peleng) could be done just on motorbike/scooter instead to lower cost? I definitely would like to avoid paying several hundred thousand per day for private drivers.
Hi Brandon! Yeah, you could definitely lower the cost by using a motorbike, and in some cases choosing cheaper hotels. Under 500k Rupiah per day is probably possible as a solo traveler, even if you stay in comfortable A/C accommodation with breakfast.
In some places, we only used a car because we weren’t sure what the roads would be like, since there was hardly any online documentation about Banggai at that time.
Brandon or anyone else heading to banggai week of july 22nd, lets share costs! π
Hey Grace, did you finally go? I am planning to reach Luwuk around the 5th of August. I am very doubtful between Banggai and Togean..
David and Intan… for a solo traveler who doesnt know how to drive a scooter, do you think the private car hires for the 5 days would add too much on total costs? Up to double?
For a 5 days with a guide its 10milion for a solo traveler π±π±π±
That price seems really high. Was that for a shared tour or private tour? You could hire a private driver with a car every day and still pay much less than that.
Yes, it’s private and solo… for 2 people is half each π
Well, just let me say that your post is really informative and if I had more time I think it has enough info for someone to do by themselves! Nice works, beuatiful pics and detailed info! Thanks agains!
Hello, my friend and me are doing the same circuit as yours but without the Mbuang-Mbuang, we are on a tight budget so how much do you think we’re going to spend per day, or do you know how much do we need in total ? Otherwise thank you so much for your tips it helps a lot!
Hi. There is some more discussion about travel costs in the comments above, but basically, around 500-600k Rupiah per day (total) should be possible if you share a room and keep your costs low by renting a scooter, etc. That doesn’t include flights of course.
You may want to choose some cheaper hotels to save on costs. For example, in Banggai Laut you could stay at Batara Guest House or another homestay instead of Hotel Banggai. It’s cheaper and should still be comfortable.
Hey everyone, we are a couple and want to do the same trip as David&Intan (thanks for sharing the detailed itinerary with us and enable us to go there in the first place!).
Is someone else visiting the Banggai Islands mid August (15th to 22nd) and want to share rides/ costs? π
Hi David & Intan, thanks so much for such a valuable post!
I have big my doubts in deciding wether I explore Togean or Banggai have increased more after reading your post. Have you visited Togean? If that is the case, would you please describe the differences?
Thanks again!
Thanks Toni! We didn’t do Togean yet, but plan to do it next time we’re in Banggai. From what I understand, there’s probably more to see and do in Banggai since it’s a bigger area with more variety in the scenery (lakes, waterfalls, animals, etc), but Togean seems like a better place to relax and stay on the beach. It definitely has more resorts to choose from than Banggai, but neither place should be too developed or touristy.
Hi David and Intan, wow, such great and clear information, thanks a lot. Because I’ve been living in Bali for 4 years and doing solo trips outside of Bali and your blog convinced me to visit Paisu Pok. I have been to Kalibiru West Papua and this will be even more spectacular. I ride my scooter everywhere by myself, so I’m glad to hear that the roads are fine there.
If anyone is going there at the turn of October/November (I’m flexible), I’d be happy to travel with someone.
Hi Sonia. I’m in Bali and going there this monday 14th of october. I plant to mostly ride a motorbike. Would love to have a partner and share costs. This applies to anyone interested as I’m solo traveller.
David & Intan thanks so much for the valuable information.
UPDATE:
1) Taxis at the Luwuk airport now charge 100k, and they try to make a deal very quickly with an “official” paper that has the 100k value written “DEAL? DEAL? DEAL”. I speak indonesian and told them it was too expensive and took a motorbike to the town for 50k.
2) There’s a lady at the airport ready to help tourists getting informations, homestays, etc.
3) I had to pay 200k for the boat from Desa Lokotoy to Oyama. I was alone and it was end of day.
4) Parts of the road from Leme-Leme to Paisupok are pretty bad, mostly if it rains. I saw an old indonesian couple falling bit time in front of me, close to Paisupok. Be careful if you ride a motorbike.
5) The road from Salakan to Mandel beach is pretty bad. Part of it is under reconstruction and if it rains It can get pretty awful. Feasible with a motorbike though.
6) You should take the road that goes from Tobing to Salakan and crosses the middle of the island. The views are quite nice.
7) You should go early to the harbours to transit between Peleng island and Banggai Laut. I waited more than 2hours for the speedboat to depart because there was not enough people and ended up paying more so we could depart, as I didn’t want to wait longer.
Btw, Mandel is, in my opinion, a clearly better beach than Oyama. I didn’t find the visit to Banggai very special honestly… but that’s me π
David & Intan thanks again for all the valuable information!
Thanks for the trip report! That’s good to know about the airport taxis. Sounds like it might be best to arrange a pickup in advance then, or else take a motorbike like you did. I agree too about Mandel beach being the best. Hope they can improve some of the roads!
Hi, thank you for entering my name and contact as a local tour guide into this blog, this is very helpful to me. may you always be healthy and happy always . πππΎ
Best regards ‘
Butros